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Second Eponymous Restaurant Highlights Chef’s Ingenuity for Reinvigorating an All-American Institution
World-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten pushes the boundaries of traditional steakhouse expectations with his decidedly contemporary rewrite – Jean Georges Steakhouse. Under his gifted direction, the highest-quality meats and seafood from around the world are cooked to perfection with flavor-releasing techniques, then receive a signature Vongerichten jolt via unexpected sauces and side dishes. Alive with bold, often Asian-inflected seasonings, house-made steak sauces, mustards, rubs and flavored salts deliver a take-no-prisoners satisfaction, while sides burst with the atypical flavors of steamed pumpkin, roasted porcini mushrooms and truffle. An amphitheater-inspired layout by Dupoux Design sections the space into a high-octane lounge, elevated dining areas for maximum “see-and-be-seen” excitement and a private chef’s table room. This masterful spin on a time-worn tradition melds beloved steakhouse touches with a chic, in-the-now experience.
Chef Vongerichten has commanded the limelight since he captured New York’s attention at the age of 29, earning four stars from The New York Times with his innovative French cuisine at Lafayette. Since then, he has opened nearly two dozen restaurants around the world, from Shanghai to Bora Bora, further refining his signature Thai-inspired French style. His tour de force, Jean Georges, opened in the Trump International Hotel and Tower in 1997 to a stream of awards: four stars from The New York Times; a rare three stars from the Michelin Guide; Chef of the Year title from Esquire; and the unprecedented award combination of Best New Restaurant and Outstanding Chef from the James Beard Foundation.
Bringing bright, modern flavors to traditional techniques represents the core of Vongerichten’s culinary philosophy, shored up by an insistence on the superiority of freshness. “Quality ingredients are what drive me to cook,” he says, “and to create dishes that bring true flavors to the fore. Each dish on my menu must be a perfect combination of well-loved flavors, backed by new, unexpected ones that guests will come to crave.” At Jean George Steakhouse, classic and simple cooking methods such as grilling, braising and sous-vide draw out the essence of the world’s best meats, while the fragrance nuances of globally-inspired spices combine into Vongerichten’s signature flair.
Throughout the menu, ginger, miso, wasabi and quince join hands with the classic zings of rosemary, basil and black truffle. The flirtation begins with a reservoir of starters. Hamachi Sashimi is paired with the subtle earthiness of black truffle toast; and Beef Carpaccio Pizza is sprinkled with shaved mushrooms, lemon & black pepper and Parmesan. Wild Mushroom "Tea," and Lobster Bisque with herbs and brandy cream provide warming temptations as a second course, along with an enticing list of salads such as Cherry Tomatoes and Burrata with grilled sourdough and scents of basil and chilies; and the robust combination of Roasted Beets, Endive and Grapes with a goat cheese fondue. Jean Georges’ signature appetizer offers up the crispy delight of Black Pepper Crab Beignets dressed in a refreshing sweet-and-sour combo of Asian pear and lime dressing.
Entrées of fish and meats perfect Vongerichten’s flavor crusade. Typically subtle Veal Chop finds sublime reinvention with a powerful spice rub, roasted peppers and prosciutto jus, while Sablefish is given a nut and seed crust, then served in a sweet-and-sour broth.
A final menu column offers up “Butcher’s Treats,” indulgent delicacies featuring iron-rich organ meats like the house special, Broiled Bone Marrow served with a parsley gremolata and Meyer lemon jam. For steakhouse purists, a profusion of cuts can be simply grilled, including filet mignon, porterhouse, NY strip, lamb chop, veal T-bone, tuna and whole branzino. Signature sauces grant a touch of piquancy and decadence to each steak’s guaranteed succulence, with Three Pepper Marmalade, Soy-Miso Butter, classic Bearnaise, Hot Mustard Sauce or Smoked Chili Glaze. Served on cast iron plates, steaks waft aromas through the open space for a multi-sensory experience. Side dishes wax poetic with both traditional favorites and zesty surprises from Mashed Potatoes and Sautéed or Creamed Spinach to Steamed Pumpkin with Parmesan-Chili Crumbs, Roasted Porcini Mushrooms with Garlic & Jalapeño and Truffled Cheese Beignets. Desserts traverse a similar range, from the familiar terrain of Caramelized Banana Cake with praline ice cream to the more exotic realm of Yuzu and White Chocolate Pavlova with Thai basil syrup.
The wine list at Jean Georges Steakhouse flies far from the standard steakhouse lineup, tossing a polite nod to the expected Bordeaux and California labels before launching a global reach. Atypical additions light up every page, including esoteric grapes form Argentina and Chile, yet the list maintains an admirable price range from affordable to truly rare.
A feisty cocktail list revisits Vongerichten’s Asian-infused repertoire of classic Alsatian drinks, including the Ginger Margarita and Lychee Raspberry Bellini.
Soothing green pastures and social spectacle find a unique hybridity in Jean Georges Steakhouse’s bold aesthetic by the Dupoux Design team. Inspired by Roman amphitheater classicism, the circular design frames a theatrical lounge at arena center, with five elevated platforms for the dining “audience” radiating out in a hierarchy of space.
Trickled throughout, abstract references to pastures and cattle express the steakhouse theme with a post-modern gesture. The chic color scheme of black and ochre is washed in amber ambient light to create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort.
Ceramic bone-marrow inspired pottery pieces, by Canadian artist Pascale Girardin, pepper the walls of the restaurants exterior. Upon entering guests are then welcomed with an abstracted bovine silhouette, designed by Dupoux Design team, set as a window into the eye-catching red façade. Just inside, a floor-to-ceiling glass wall doubles as a twinkling “forest” of wine, and the 52-seat lounge extends its energized buzz throughout the space. Leather day-bed banquettes prove ideal for lounging in Romanesque decadence; glazed lava rock tops the bar and tables; a “milk drop” chandelier of cut acrylic subtly suggests the pastoral; and sheers serve as a scrim for the dining area beyond.
From the heights of the amphitheater’s 192-seat dining area, every table affords an entertaining view. Occupying the top tier, a 22-seat semi-private dining area looks down across the entire room. Here the nostalgic farmland motif finds distinct expression – recycled barn wood lines the space; a custom-designed chandelier reminiscent of clouds drifts above. Back near the entrance, a 10-seat chef’s table room provides a unique and private experience, with art-framed portholes onto the kitchen allowing firsthand glimpses of the chef’s own artistry at work.
Once again, Vongerichten has brought his timeless combination of eccentricity and grace to the sands of Las Vegas with Jean Georges Steakhouse.
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Andrea Brown
MGM Resorts International
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Susan Hosmer
Bullfrog & Baum
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